Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby mssbass » Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:58 pm

The water readings I gave you were before a water change. I use a water testing kit (liquid drops) My PH directly from my tap is 7.6; however, the PH in the aquarium is 6.0 (I just retested). What do you think is causing the PH in the aquarium to be so much lower? Should I buy some PH UP? What is the perfect PH for an oscar? Also, my nitrites were fine (0); but nitrates were 10ppm.

My filter is a Rena XP3. Do you suggest replacing it or adding a larger new filter? I'll get some pictures as soon as I have my camera (later this evening) Right now, I'm trying to change out 40% weekly (cleaning gravel as I go)

As far as adding water back into the tank after a 20-40% water change, I should leave all fish in the tank, add stress coat directly to the aqarium rated for 90 gallons of treatment, THEN add water back from the tap (same temp)

As far as the vitamins go, I'm using Vita Chem. The water cleared up a few hours after I added but I think I'll just add drops to the food itself. I won't add while I'm treating for HTH. I wish they made vitamin pellets (no need to add extra).

I've already started treating for HTH with Fish Zole. I plan to treat for 5 days but not confident this will clear it up.

The oscar actually chews, then spits up the pellets out of his mouth, like he's in a hurry to eat other floating pellets. I haven't tried other foods yet (beef heart, etc.) but plan to.
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby Gerry » Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:29 pm

Your water readings look fine and yet something doesn't add up.

Rena xp 3 is a bit short for what you want on a 90gallon tank.

Nitrates of just 10 before a water change, with an Oscar (big pooper), Pleco (big pooper) and a con seems very low for a week gap between changes of only 20 - 40%.

If you were constantly having these readings and feeding a mixed diet you wouldn't get HITH.

Try testing again mid week just to compare and post the numbers again
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby Alan » Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:40 pm

i wouldnt use ph up , you probably just need some tuffa rock in it it slowly dissolves in acidic water and helps keep ph stable
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby Blake » Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:51 pm

Far as filtration goes, if you can afford it I would add another XP3 and you would be set for good. A lot of us recommend the x2 rule for peace of mind. x2 rule meaning 2 filters and 2 heaters etc. You could actually get away with an additional XP series any number. Wouldn't necessarily have to be an XP3. If I remember correctly the XP1 is 250GPH XP2 is 300GPH XP3 is 350GPH XP4 is 450GPH so any of these added on would be perfect. I do believe petmountain has the XP1 for 89.99$ right now as well as free shipping
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby donsfish » Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:53 pm

Don't look at replacing the xp3 but adding another filter. Another xp3 would be great. *same time as blake*

Don't try the beefheart, best to stay away from warm blooded animal meats. Home made recipes are great for adding in the vita chem and veggies etc. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13487 should give you a pretty good idea of what to feed them and use as ingredients for your own food.

About the best way to clear up HITH (if it is) is good clean water and good diet. If it's bacterial as opposed to HITH other measures may need to be taken. Not too long ago I had to battle some bacterial issues that I even posted on here thinking it might be HITH but was assured it wasn't. Pictures will help....
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby OinKY » Sun Jun 05, 2011 3:33 pm

I wouldn't try using chemicals or additives to bring the pH up.Too much risk of shifts,even a crash.
pH from tap often (as in almost always) higher than tank pH,so testing tap water requires dechlorinating and letting it sit for a bit to get an acurate reading.Overlooking(?) that with your water change of 20-40% that you are only diluting pH,so the tank 6.0 + the tap 7.6(?) is actually giving you probably a 6.8 to 7.0 to start the week.Filtration,good filtration,naturally pulls pH down gradually through the week.
Something to look at is the hardness of your tap water.Not unusual for low basic pH (7.1~7.6) to be relatively "soft" on a hardness reading depending on the minerals involved.Beneficial bacteria in filtration uses calcium and magnesium in their day to day metabolic processes...so easy for small mineral content to be consumed pulling the relative pH down because of no buffering.Leave the pH alone,but if you feel the need to add extra buffering Alan's suggestion is easiest and safest approach. Oscars "comfort range" is naturally 6.4-7.4,but most being tank-raised these days allows leeway there.
Stability is most important,not worrying with specifics.

Far as being underfiltered...just add a HoB like an Emperor 400 or AC 110.Another canister would be good option.
Just think about it.
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby mssbass » Fri Jun 10, 2011 7:13 pm

I've just bought another Rena XP3 - just waiting on arrival. There are 3 baskets - Can you guys suggest a typical setup for my oscar tank for basket 1 (on the bottom), basket 2 and basket 3? I've attached the best pics I can get of my oscar. It looks like Hole in the Head to me... What do you guys think?
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oscar2.jpg
Hole in the head
oscar1.jpg
Hole in the head
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby donsfish » Fri Jun 10, 2011 7:32 pm

White halo around nostrils...would make me think HITH. Let the others chime in on that though. Looks like it's bottom lip is chewed up?

For the Rena xp3 from the bottom up. 2@ course 20 pads 2@ fine 30 pads in the first basket. Bio media in the middle basket as much as you can fit in there. More bio media in the top basket with one of those strainers on top, then your very fine filter pad.
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby Blake » Fri Jun 10, 2011 7:54 pm

Wow, he is in rough shape. Have you seen any improvement since you posted on May 31st? It has been 10 days since you posted about having issues. Have you been keeping the water perfect and keeping everything in line? Congrats on the new filter!
Last edited by Blake on Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby callen » Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:36 pm

Poor guy...yes it looks like HITH. How are your water parameters?

I thinking possible secondary infection. So would treat with and antibotic. Has he been eating?
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby Gerry » Sat Jun 11, 2011 3:09 am

Looks like there is a few problems going on here. Yes, that looks like HITH.

Water looks white too, post your readings just before water change
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby JohnL » Sat Jun 11, 2011 3:36 am

Agree that looks like hith but not sure what's going on with his lip. Wish we had a better picture.
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby mssbass » Sat Jun 11, 2011 9:13 am

His lip is broken in half because in the past few months he has literally banged himself against the top and bottom of the tank as hard as he can. I removed all rocks, deco, etc possible to prevent further damage. He hasn't done that lately though (last week). Yes, the water has been cloudy for a long time. Since I've been medicating with Fish Zole (about a week ago), I've been doing 40-50% water changes every day. The water has stayed cloudy but it's always been cloudy as long as I can remember. Again, he is very very messy and spits out a lot of his food after chewing it up. I'm not sure how long it's supposed to be to see improvement with the HTH; however, the hole has not diminished in size. I've treated for 5 consecutive days. I'm using up all my Stress Coat at 5 capfuls each day... I've been using the vitamins I bought for him (Vitachem).

I've started adding a little shrimp to his diet which he's been eating (whole fresh shrimp without the head - not cooked) I'm going to buy some other things on the list you posted previously. By the way, how long can I keep the fresh shrimp in the fridge without it going bad? Should I freeze and thaw out so it lasts longer?

As far as the filter, what bio filter media do I use??

I'm also installed a GFCI outlet to prevent any electricity issues...

I'm going to repost the current water conditions within the next hour or so...
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby Blake » Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:01 am

I don't have a lot of experience with HITH, but after 10 days you should be seeing some improvement. As callen said, it looks like it might be infected now, which would call for antibiotic.

Let others chime in on this one, but I think the Fish Zole might not be giving you any benefits.

As far as Bio media goes in the XP3 there are tons and tons of things that can be used, ceramic rings, bio balls, bio star,bio chem, cut up pvc pipe, and even terra-cotta pots. In my XP2 and XP3 I have all my pads in there (as don described) and I have ceramic rings, bio stars, bio chem, and recently tossed in some extra bio media that consisted of broken up terr-cotta pots and even a couple of pieces of egg crate (ceiling grid) to have it cycled for when I add more filters in the coming days. You can get very creative with your filters and their media, especially since they have a decent capacity, so long as you are meeting your bio needs chem needs etc. etc.

Lookin forward to the water readings.
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Re: Conditioning water AFTER it's been added back in

Postby mssbass » Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:14 am

The baskets usually contain 1 or 2 compartments for bio - Is it ok to mix?? Tell me exactly what bio I should buy and I'll get it. I've heard it's not so good to use carbon with Oscars...

Current Readings:

PH: Aquarium/6.4 Tap/8.3
Ammonia: Aquarium/0 Tap/0
Nitrite: Aquarium/.10 Tap/0
Nitrate: Aquarium/5 Tap/0

Keep in mind, I have been doing 40-50% water changes daily (sucking gravel as I go)...

Along with the HTH, the oscar also displays signs of "hiccups". It will actually look as though it has the hiccups. If I need antibiotics, what do you suggest? What do you suggest for HTH?
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